Articles, Blog



What’s up esk8ers it’s Neil with
Big Kids and on this channel we talk about DIY tips, vendors, and the electric
skateboard community. If you’re new here please consider subscribing to see more
videos just like this one. And don’t forget to check the show notes below for
any notes or links I leave in the description. This is part 2 of my DIY
electric skateboard build where I put together the battery and electronics. But
before I do I owe one winner a prize from my last raffle giveaway. And the
winner of the one-fifth scale hoverboard from the movie Back to the Future is Jacob! Jacob congratulations and thank
you to everybody that actually participated in the raffle giveaway. We
do have another raffle giveaway that’s going to be sponsored by Build
Kit Boards. Build Kits Boards is a DIY esk8 vendor with a lot of experience
and awesome reputation in the esk8 community. Click the link in the
description to see how you could win these 90 millimeter flywheel clones as
well as these awesome motor mounts that you could use for your own DIY build. Now
let’s get into the video. To power the electric skateboard we want to take our two 5s lipo batteries and make it into one 10s lipo pack. Each lipo has a
positive terminal and a negative terminal. So by connecting the positive lead of one
battery to the negative lead in the opposite battery will join these lipos
in series making it a 10s or a 42 volt battery pack. So basically how we’re
gonna do that oh well we’re gonna do it with this this is called a series
connector and I’m gonna show you how to make that right now so here’s what we’re
gonna need some 10 gauge wire 4 millimeter htx connectors at least a
hundred watt soldering iron soldering flux electric soldering rosin some wire
cutters get some tweezers first measure the wire to about 3 or 4 inches cut
three equal sizes to pieces in black and one in red then you’re going to need to
break out those four millimeter htx connectors so that we could solder them
to those wires but before we do that make sure you’re in a ventilated area so
the first step we’re gonna want to make sure to outline this we want the
positive of this lipo battery to go into the negative terminal of this lipo
battery on this you’ll see that they have one side that’s a male and one side
that’s a female the female is actually a little bit larger and then the male is a
little bit smaller that’s what she said or he said so in order for us to connect
these two we’re gonna have to make sure the
placement is correct so male to female and vice versa and there you go so now
that we’ve done that we’re gonna trace back this positive wire connect it to
the first connector that we’ve connected I like to dip the exposed wire ends into
some flux this will help soldering rosin seep
fully into that exposed ends of the wire also you might want to use some kind of
helping hands or if you don’t have any just use some pliers because the wires
might get hot keep your iron tip on the exposed wire for a few seconds then add
the solder and make sure the solder melts and seeps into the exposed wire what also helps is tending the 4
millimeter htx connectors keep the metal point of the connector and add the
solder you can expect a small pool of solder to accumulate inside the
connection point and make sure to do the same for both sides now let’s solder the
positive wire to the correct terminal on the connector by heating up both the
terminal and the wire it’s vital to connect the wire to the correct terminal
so if you need to go back to the battery and map out which terminal on the series
connector will be connecting to the positive side of the battery so one
thing that you’re going to want is heat shrink these bear-like terminals they
can be real dangerous if they touch things because it’s that the current is
actually going through these so you’re going to want to cover this with an
insulation and this is the heat shrink right here now that that’s complete you could
connect this side and it should connect nicely take it out right away because
this is pretty much live wire I mean these are two but they’re kind of
insulated and covered if you could next add together to this negative you can
see a huge spark damage your battery hurt yourself possibly so always unplug
after you’re using it just the reference so this side we’re gonna want to make
sure that the connector is correct on this side we want this positive side
that we’re connecting to go into the negative the negative is using the
smaller sized terminal and so in order for this to fit correctly the male to
the female once again so in this case this is going to connect the larger side
on here so that’s what we’re gonna do next so before I do anything we’re going
to be closing up this connection and so I recommend putting that heat shrink on
before soldering the wire to the connection so my soldering iron is
tinned the end of this wire is tinned and then we’ve also attend the end of
this connector lastly I have a heat shrink on so let’s connect these two so these are done the best way to tell
if something is soldered well number one is that you hated both connections you
want to heat up the connection on here and then heat it on here so you got to
keep that iron on that place for a pretty long time and then you really
could just pull at it as hard as you can and if you can’t take that off you’ve
done a good job so let’s slide that heat shrink over the
connection there you got it that’s the first part so here we got our set up as
for now so once I am going to plug this in I don’t recommend you do this at home
just yet but for the sake of showing you now you have the positive wire going all
the way through here into the negative wire and then one positive wire that is
loose on this side you also have a negative wire that’s loose so one
positive and one negative will make this basically into one big battery but now
you have two ends that are loose and you don’t want to touch them you don’t want
to touch them together because you get a big spark maybe explode some stuff which
is not good the negative wire on this side is gonna be the negative wire for
this big battery I want to put this negative wire here to kind of show
that’s going to be the negative wire going out on this side we have the
positive wire going out of here so I’d like to put this over here and now we
have one big battery going to where these are going into to basically power
the V ESC but what I’m gonna be putting in between there is an on and off switch
these are the female and they’re going to be go and the male is going to be
from the VSC so those connect to the V ESC and then
like said the connector is going to be going
in between so what we’re left with here is a male XT 90 connector and the best
way to connect that is with a female side let’s follow this again the
positive is always marked with red so we’re going to put that on that side
like that and the negative is always marked with black and what I’m doing
here is just aligning these two connectors to remember how it’s all
going to flow so positive goes into this side which is the flat side and then the
positive is on this side which is also the flat side of this connector this is
the negative which goes on to kind of the triangle side and then this is the
negative connector that goes into this kind of triangle sign so here’s the
diagram of what we have to create next let’s go again we’re going to want to put our
heat shrink on before soldering because we’re not going to be able to get it on
after we close up that circuit so here’s where we are at this point
we’ve finished everything up on this side we want the positive to go into
this positive and connect into this negative so let’s connect those and now
that we have this XT 90 connector we want to connect that to the the button
and the V ESC and so I’ve matched that up this is the positive it’s gone into
this negative portion and then this positive is the loose end going up into
here and we’re going to match that up with the positive on this end same on
this side you’ve got the negative coming out on this side going up here into the
negative of this terminal and that will go match up with here so you can
actually connect these two together and nothing will explode so what I found
putting my first electric skateboard together was that coming around to
finding an enclosure for all of the components the batteries and the vests
is very very important but it isn’t cheap so I did find an easier solution
this is just some Tupperware the nice thing about it is that it has these
clamps on the side or clamps which I think you’re gonna keep it really secure
and it fits all of my electronics I’m gonna I’m gonna bolt it down to right
here and hopefully that does the trick you spring this 3m rubberized paint onto
a Tupperware container this enclosure will serve as a storage and protection
for the batteries and electronics I chose a Tupperware container that will
open and shut easily in case I need to service the electronics or charge the
batteries plus it’s a cheap solution so I’ve done a couple things off-camera
right now that I should have recorded but the the enclosure is all dry and
then what I ended up doing is just taking some some bolts and drilling some
holes through the wood of this deck so that they pop out on this side and then
what I did is I put on nuts that actually fit into these to keep this all
fastened together here you see some some velcro these velcro straps are going to
help with keeping the battery in place so I put one on the battery and then one
on the bottom portion of here actually put one up here too to put the vest and
then one over here for the button so the VSC controls the voltage as well as the
amps sent to the motor and it has these wires called phase wires the bullet
connectors in these actually match up with the bullet connectors on the motor
these are also phase wires and you can actually plug them into any of the plug
connections that you have over here it doesn’t matter but what you’re gonna
want to make sure in the end is that this motor is spinning the correct way
if it’s not spinning the correct way you can always switch the
phase wires around until it actually does but I’ve already color-coded these
so I know that when I plug these in in this sequence the motor will go forward so how is this gonna get powered it gets
powered by plugging a power source like the batteries that we have but before we
do that I want to use an on and off switch and this will plug into this
on-and-off switch that I actually have right here all I did was drill a hole
and then insert this switch and then on the other
side of the switch is some threads and you just have to screw this nut on so
that it can screw in nicely so that plugs into here and then we’re going to
want to match we’re going to plug this in so this says out so the power is
going into here and the power is going out to here into the V ESC so here I
have the lipo batteries connected to the series connector we made we’re going to
want to plug this in to the in portion if you could see that right there
it says in of the plug so that’s all plugged up now and we should be able to
be able to press this button so just so you could see the sequence of
electronics we have the lipo batteries two separate lipo batteries which are
connected to the series connectors which are then connected to the on/off switch
and then the switch is drilled right here the on/off switch connects to the V
ESC and the V ESC connects to the motor alright so there you have it I hope that
this electronics and battery tutorial was helpful and because it took me so
long to explain I’ll be continuing the V ESC and the RC remote configuration in a
part three DIY video if you’re looking to join the raffle giveaway don’t forget
to check out the link below because I’m giving away motor mounts and wheels so
there’s a chance for two winners in the meantime if you have any questions
please leave it in the comments below and as always thanks for checking out my
channel and subscribe to see more videos like this one
purrs oh hey all right don’t forget to check out this video part one of my
tutorial or this video on how to balance charge your batteries and if you haven’t
noticed I’m wearing some new gear this is some escape gear
brought to you by big kits check the link below to purchase your own seagull


hey i want to use 1/10 scale esc for my board . ive finished it half but i dont want to fry my electronics as im using nimh cells
so, is it necessary to use a sensored esc ??? please reply .

hey so great video man im so happy for find this video so much thanks realy,,, my dream is can to biuld my own electric skate board all terrain great video!!

Thank you so much for your videos! I recently bought all my parts and I’m going for a safer speed than yours, only 25 top speed. Did it for a little more than 600. Definitely use HobbyKing motor mounts! They’re way cheaper and work fine

Great video, but your soldering is really bad, you need a lot more heat in your joints. A larger tip would help a lot with these big connections.

Yooo Wattup!!! Can I use 2 ZIPPY Compact 5800mAh 5S 25C Lipo Pack batteries with theTorque motor 6374/ 190KV? Also can I use two 6s batteries?

Im looking at building a board, ive seen a similar if not the same setup on another youtuber… But I dont like the battery thing going on.
I want to be able to swap the batteries easily. So im not sure… I dont get how it charges too.

I also wanted one that will get me at least 15km before having to swap batteries.

hi friend .big kid. i am currently working on my own electric longboard build. ive researched for months now and ill be making an dual drive electric longboard for under 150 $!! can you please contact me? we can talk about it.
[email protected]

i want a regular board with an 8.5 deck you can still ollie curbs with and be electric. do you think thats possible or does it just get too heavy?

i'll be building a e-sk8 soon and im a noob, a question about the batteries. i'm planning to buy a ZIPPY Flightmax 5000mAh 6S1P 30C, do i really need two of this battery for e-sk8?

What is the top speed? Im planing to build my own board bud I want to know how hard it Wil going to be and how fast is this one?

Hi I’m looking into building my own board and am on a budget, what electronics would you recommend that don’t break the bank?


I just have a question how would you add a single motor to a dual motor brand new skateboard and also be able to run the single motor without running the other two motors?

By the way I'm new to this electronic world please if it's possible explain to me as simple as possible.


Looking at the prices ok diy kits they're almost as much as just buying a board. Is it cheaper to buy part by part rather than a kit?

Steely Dan! Couldn't believe my ears for a minute there. Thanks for throwing a Steely Dan song in your video 🙂

Quantos centímetros do chão está o skate? Perguntas para saber a altura do tapuer eu compro. ri muito

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *