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Skateboard Applique Quilting: Easy Appliqueing Tutorial with Rob Appell of Man Sewing

Skateboard Applique Quilting: Easy Appliqueing Tutorial with Rob Appell of Man Sewing

Hey, everybody! It’s Rob from Man Sewing
and I’ve got a great tutorial for you today. Yeah, that’s right. We’re going to keep
playing with our skateboards a little bit. And, if you haven’t caught the first few
tutorials we have out on skateboards, there should be some links down below for you, but,
remember, we were playing with these fun three-dimensional skateboards that I made as raw edge applique
at the end of the tutorial that I did with Jenny Doan. Well, then, we came back and we
did some actual applique onto fabric for you. Well, let’s talk about, today, how we’re
going to anchor down those applique. That’s right. So, this technique or the three techniques
I’m going to show will work for any kind of raw edge or fusible web applique. We’re
going to do some blanket stitching, we’re going to do some satin stitching, and just
a little bit with free motion machine quilting and that should give you some great ways to
hold down any of your appliques. So, I bet you’re ready to get started. So, the first thing we’re going to do is,
I’ve already prepared a sample. This is the blanket stitch and you probably have to
look around these wheels here, the wheel you can see, and a blanket stitch. You do it with
a feed dogs up. You have your standard presser foot on that’s got a nice, wide zig-zag
opening and, most of the time, the stitch is going to do something like this: it’s
going to go down, over, back, down, over, back. Sometimes it will take two legs and
then over and back. You don’t want much bite to go into your applique, and then that
straight edge of the thread is going to run right along the edge of your applique perimeter
there. Now, this will make it somewhat washable, not completely washable like the satin stitch,
the second version I’m going to show you, but this will certainly hold the applique
down and then you don’t have to quilt the appliques themselves. So, to do this, you also notice, probably,
that I have some paper and I’ve actually stitched through the paper. I often use recycled
paper and I stitched through the paper because the paper acts like a stabilizer and then
I will tear this away after I’m done. So, let’s get started on an applique portion
of it or the anchoring of the applique, right? And, so, I’m going to use this little board,
here, and I probably have almost enough paper or at least enough to get started and I’m
just going to go around the tail of this board for you so you can see how I’m doing it.
Now, the machine has already been set up for the blanket stitch and I am using roughly
a 2 ½ millimeter bite into the applique and about a… what do I have this thing set at?
About a one millimeter drop of the stitch or one millimeter leg over and then bite into
it or stitch length one, width 2.5. There you go. So, that’s what I’m looking for. Now, you probably want to do a couple of test
runs on this and, if I’m lucky right now, my needle is in position to where it’s on
the down leg, so I’m going to go ahead and drop this down, nice and slow, and then what’s
happening is the needle’s coming down and then it bites in, and it’s going to swing
over and bite down and bite down. And now, what I’m doing is, I’m watching the stroke
of the length of the stitch and that’s just following the edge of my applique as I go.
If you need to pivot, it’s best to pivot right before the bite so you kind of want
to time it out, and at this point you would want the needle down and then you can pivot
your fabric slightly, just like that, right? And then you can bounce it over for the bite.
So, blanket stitches are great, but they’re a little tough on the corners and they actually
give you a little bit more of a visually blocky look. So, these, if you haven’t ever seen a real
blanket stitch, think of your Sunbonnet Sue quilts. Sunbonnet Sue is often blanket stitched
in position, ok? So conversely, the satin stitch is a little bit easier to do arcs and
rounded areas with because it doesn’t look as blocky or chunky because it’s not doing
a series of straight lines like this is. But this is a very effective way to hold your
applique down. Let me finish this out so you can see what I’ve done. And as I’m coming
into the finish and one bite, if I’m lucky, and a stop. There we go. Ok. So, now I’m going to pull this out. Let
me set it down nice, and you can see how that just curves nice and around there. That’s
holding the applique down, right? I’ve stitched through the paper there. Nice tension. So
that is the first and one of the easier ways to hold your applique down, known as the “blanket
stitch” and some of your machines actually may not have a true perpendicular blanket
stitch that looks like this. Some of them have a little bit of a “V”, kind of a
blind hem stitch, and you can certainly use that as well. Ok. So let’s move along quickly,
here, because I’m having fun today. The next one I want to show you is going to be
the satin stitching. Ok, now with the satin stitching here, here’s
my example, ok? Let me set that down so I’m not moving it all over the camera for you.
The satin stitching, as you can see, is a nice, tight little, it’s a zig-zag, right?
You just put your machine in zig-zag mode. You’re going to really shorten down your
stitch length. So, right now I’ve choisen, choisen? I’ve chosen a .4 stitch length
and a 2 ½ millimeter stitch width, ok? Again, practice on something if you haven’t done
this before. And I’m still doing it through paper. And I also wanted to show you, I got
a little overzealous, but the paper just peels off really nice because the stitching is kind
of perforating as you go. So you will remove all of your paper, but you can see how easy
that comes out, right? Ok, and the satin stitching itself actually
requires more of a stabilizer or more of a paper than the actual… excuse me. I’m
looking for my parts. …than the actual blanket stitching because as the satin stitching tends
to cause the fabric to draw up a little bit more, ok?
So, let’s go ahead and satin stitch this bad boy. I’ve just grabbed another piece
of binder paper. I don’t know if any of you out there are Costco fans, but I’ve
been told that the printer paper at Costco is really flimsy and, therefore, it makes
great stabilizer. Ha, ha, ok? Now, I’m just watching this. Now, what I’m
looking at here is a little line right down the center of my foot and on that line the
needle is just zigging and zagging over that line. So the line is actually on the division
where the fabric and the applique meet, ok? So, that’s all I have to watch. And it’s
just like driving your Oldsmobile down the road: you’re not looking at your hood ornament,
you’re looking down the road, right? And, for me, I find with a little bit quicker pace
on my machine, it’s a little easier to control, but I’m still going around the tail of that
board for you. One of the tricks I find with satin stitching
is, every now and again, I get myself in a position where it would be easier if I was
heading backwards, so I’ve actually learned, you can lock your machine in the reverse and
satin stitch backwards and get you out of those points or those tight corners, literally.
The 2 ½ millimeter zigzag is pretty narrow. If you find that your fabric is kind of shredding
underneath your needle, you can always go with thicker or wider like a 3.0 satin stitch,
right? And then the other thing that I’ll point
out with the satin stitching is, as you probably saw with the blanket stitching, too, I’m
always using the same color bobbin thread as I’m using for the top because, if you
have any little tension discrepancies, you don’t want to see the thread from the bottom
side of the project coming up to the top because it will always show that way. So that’s
basically the nuts and bolts of the satin stitching. It’s real, real simple. Again,
take it slow and work your way around the corners, right? And you can see, again, it’s
stitching right through the paper there and I’ll point out, real close here, at first
I was a little bit off my line and that’s what I mean by, “you can see the fabric
kind of blowing out”. So, let’s say that happened to you. It’s
the first time you’ve ever satin stitched. That happens and I was on a 2.5, I’m just
going to kick that up to like a 3.0 or maybe a 3.5. Fix that corner and then do the rest
of the entire quilt with a 3.5. and, like I said, a lot of sewing machines are set up
completely differently. So, these are the numbers I’m using. Experiment until you
have it just the way you want it. Now, I’ve gotten a lot of requests to have
people watch me do my free motion work and I’m going to show you that in just a second,
but I have to let you know, this is free motion on the applique, so I’m not going to be
teaching a bunch of crazy stuff and drills and things, but those things are also coming
down the line for you. So, let’s get ready for our free motion
and as I bring the free motion around, I’m just going to point out a couple of things.
I probably should still throw a couple safety pins in here to baste it. I’m not too worried
about that because it’s such a small sample and I am just doing this as a demonstration.
I’m not doing this for the real quilt. If this was the real quilt, all of my blocks
would be assembled and then I would do the borders. Then I put the batting. I’d really
baste it and then I would do what I’m going to show you here in a second. But there is,
just so you know, backing fabric, some cotton batting, and then the actual skateboard applique
that’s going to get free motion quilted here. Let me take a second and set up the
machine. I’ll be right back with you. Ok, I’m back. Did you miss me? Now check
this out. I want to tell you what I’ve done. I’ve got a fun little quick tip out there
already about doing a lot with different kinds of free motion feet, but, just so you know,
with free motion we’re going to reach around and we’re going to drop our feed dogs and
then I’ve got a speciality foot that’s going to come up and down with the stroke
of the needle and, like all quilting, we should start in the middle of our quilt and work
our way towards the outer edges. So, I’m going to start in the middle of this deck
and then my goal is to try to run that stitch line right on the edge, about a needle’s
thickness, a sewing machine needle’s thickness in from the outer edge. I don’t want to
hit right on the edge because then glue will kind of splinter apart and I don’t want
to come in too far because then, over time, the applique will start to curl up and look
untidy. So, this is free motion quilting. I’m going
to lock in my stitch and then I’m going to begin sewing and I’m in charge of all
my stitch length and this one I have a hard time talking through, but you can see how
much faster I can go and let’s say I wanted to carve around here so that now I can get
onto my trucks. Free motion, you’re going to try to keep it a little bit more consistent
in what you’re doing. And I like to try to not stop my thread or start and stop too
many times. And you can also add character with free motion quilting. So, just a reminder,
I have to control the speed of my hands and the speed of my stitch and it’s almost impossible
to talk while doing it–one of the only times I’m quiet in my life–but
you can see how quickly you can get some serious
territory covered. Ok, and let me just stop that. And this has
got a cool thread cutter on it so it’s going to cut my thread. Ok, and let’s bring this
here where you can see it. And now, the reason I like the free motion quilting a little bit
is, I don’t know if you can tell, but it’s already starting to lock and pucker because
of the way I’ve stitched this. And then, like I said, I can add some character and
detail into the parts and pieces of whatever the applique is. Of course, this one, it’s
the wheels and trucks and the hardware we’ve got set up for you there. So, those are the three basics to how to anchor
your raw edge or your fusible applique. You’ve got your blanket stitch, your satin stitch,
and your free motion quilting and I think the quilts look the best when there’s a
whole variety of all of them included. So, I hope that gives you a little more of the
information you were asking for and until we see you next time, this is Man Sewing.


Happy Memorial Day!  I would never have thought to free motion down my applique, that is amazing!  Thanks for another wonderful idea!

Best to you and your family on this Memorial Day! Thanks for those three tips. I do a fair amount of fusible applique and am never sure which method is best. I guess it just depends on the design of the applique and what look you want because they do all look different. I tend to use the free motion quilting because it is so forgivable. And oh do I need to be forgiven sometimes!!! I do really like the blanket stitch when working with wool. Thanks again for doing these videos. I look forward to the quilting videos that you will eventually put together.

Thank-You again for wonderful tips.May You and Yours have Safe and fun Memorial  Day.God Bless and say Thank-You to a Vet.

In this week's tutorial I'll teach you how to work with applique and finish off those raw edges! #Applique   #Skateboard   #ManSewing  

Appliqué is on my list of things to learn after I master my quilting basics. Enjoyed watching to get the general idea of how this works

Love this for 2 reasons….the skateboard quilt is my fav, and because I want to applique an entire quilt. Thanks for the how-to!

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